Thursday, 13 September 2012

TRAIL OF FRIENDSHIP AND CULINARY DELIGHTS




Photo: Brett McMichael High up in the mountains of Durmitor in Montenegro.

Brett McMichael, a member of the ROM 2012 Trial of Friendship Trip, writes about his experiences last summer in the Balkans.

The Tradition Continues

Leaving the USA on June 20th I arrived just in time for the beginning of “Kamp Krijesnica” (or Camp Firefly in English). This is the camp I started way back in 2001 for children and teens who have cancer. Located in the picturesque lakeside village of Fuzine, Croatia, the camp is a favorite way to spend a week up in the hills away from the heat.  This year, as in years past, we had 35 children and 15 volunteer staff.  Daily activities included arts and crafts, sports, social games, drama and music.  With a mixture of new and returning campers, the “veterans” were more than willing to show the “newbies” the ropes.  Towards the end of the camp nearly everyone begged us to lengthen the camp by at least a few days if not a month!

One highlight of the camp was the Adventure Academy.  The children and teens confronted physical challenges such as the high ropes course, for example, swinging bridges high up off the ground and natural obstacles, such as climbing up a steep mountain and exploring small caves.  Since the children were well harnessed they were quite safe, but they still had to overcome their fear of high places for example.  When they conquered these challenges you could see their big smiles light up their faces.  This activity was a sure way to boost their self-esteem.


After the camp ended I embarked on a bold adventure to visit 9 countries in the Balkans from July 1st to the 25th.  I was in Croatia, Serbia, Romania, Bulgaria, Bosnia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, and back to Croatia again. I wasn’t alone however, I was accompanied by other folks from the ROM (Renewing Our Minds) leadership team.  As you may remember in years past I was a part of ROM, which is an annual gathering of young adults from all over the Balkans.  The goal of ROM is to encourage the next generation of young leaders to be active in peace building and reconciliation in their communities and nations.  Also ROM teaches how to be leaders of integrity and humility, based on the principles of Jesus, the ultimate servant-leader.

This year instead of having the ROM Gathering in Fuzine, Croatia we decided to visit past participants in their respective countries.  The leadership team wanted to visit these former participants to listen to and encourage them in their work, community service projects and studies.  Also we wanted to hear from them about their thoughts regarding ROM.  We asked such questions as, “How did ROM affect you, what stayed with you from ROM?”  And, “How can ROM be improved, is there something we should add or take away?”  We also asked if ROM dealt with Jesus in a balanced way or if we were too heavy handed or too lacking in this area.

We found out that ROM did indeed impact their lives, in a profound way.  Most said that they never look at themselves or others in the same way as before.  ROM helped them to see others’ perspectives and opened their hearts towards people from other ethnic / national / religious, etc. backgrounds.  After attending ROM many felt they should be doing more for the less fortunate in their communities.  And they were encouraged, realizing that they could indeed make a difference in this world.

Most said we dealt with Jesus in a balanced way, revealing aspects of His life they had never heard of or thought about before, such as Jesus working with a small group of close friends (the disciples) to change the world.  And Jesus didn’t have political or military power or a large bank account. 

We also heard that it is still important to address the past Balkan wars and the sources of conflict even though the young people today may not even think these are so important.  Today most young people see the lack of jobs as an important issue to address, but the past ROM participants said that even though today’s youth may not remember the wars because they were too young or not even born yet, still their current lives are affected by unresolved issues from the wars.  Moreover, their parents and other relatives (who WERE involved or affected by the war) shape the young adults’ current views about other ethnic groups and nationalities. 

Some suggested we take ROM on the road so to speak.  “Why not have ROM in a different country each year?”  Others still preferred to have ROM in Fuzine as a nice, peaceful, neutral place.  Three weeks while OK in the past was seen as too long now.  Maybe we should have ROM for only two to two and a half weeks maximum since most young people have to work during the summer and can not get that much time off.  After all was said and done everyone agreed that ROM is still a valuable and viable ministry that should definitely continue.

The reason we called it the trail of friendship was that as we traveled we met more and more old friends and made many new ones.  And culinary delights, well because everywhere we went we ate and ate and ate!  Not just ordinary food either, but delicious national delicacies and LARGE quantities of these foods!  We found out that there are at least two things that certainly bind the Balkans into one region, their excellent hospitality and their love of meat!

Highlights

Wherever we went if was HOT, way hotter than normal for the Balkan region!  Temperatures averaged between 90 to 100 degrees.  This meant staying well hydrated, which in turn meant visiting a lot of cafes and keeping energy expenditure to a bare minimum during the daytime.

In Serbia the first city we stopped at was Novi Sad.  It is a beautiful city with many brightly colored buildings.  Belgrade, our next stop is the capital city.  Since it has over 2 million people it is full of energy!  While there we had the chance to meet a couple of royals and tour their gorgeous palaces.  Later that day we toured a children’s cancer ward.  I thought to myself, “what a small distance in terms of geography, but yet a whole world apart.”

Romania, much, much more than just the “land of Dracula” revealed to us its historical roots in the small city of Sigisoara, a UNESCO world heritage site.  It was nothing for a building to be more than 500 years old there!  We stayed for a couple days just outside of the city’s center.  Later we had a close encounter with a mother bear and her two cubs.  They were out scrounging for food in the trash of a hotel on the edge of the forest.

We toured two beautiful Orthodox churches in the city of Sofia, Bulgaria.  I lit a candle and said a prayer for small children suffering from a strange, new illness in Southeast Asia.  Some children died within 24 hours of becoming ill.  I had heard about it on a news broadcast and decided that I needed to pray for them.  The churches were so peaceful and had an atmosphere of reverence.  I especially enjoyed hearing the chants in the background.

Sarajevo, Bosnia was a treasure trove of history as well.  Strolling the small cobble stone streets of the old town while exploring the many shops specializing in metal work, ceramic pottery and basketry was great fun!  It is such an interesting city with many faiths living side by side. 

The next place we visited was Kosovo, but in order to get there we had to pass through Montenegro.  The road was very curvy and climbed steeply way above the valleys below.  The views were simply stunning, but also rather scary!  The small guardrails provided little reassurance as we climbed well over 9,000 feet!  The turquoise blue lakes below however were a sight to behold!

We entered Kosovo about 9pm and began looking for a suitable hotel.  The first was too expensive for our budget, the second was affordable but smelled like cigarette smoke and sweat. !The third was kind of well, how should I put it, disreputable, charging by the hour.  We were beginning to lose hope when in the distance we saw the bright neon sign of “Hotel LORD!”  Yes, it proved to be just what we could afford, quite clean and new with a very friendly and helpful staff.

Kosovo was quite interesting since it was my first time there.  Besides touring Prishtina, we saw Mitrovica where we could feel the tension in the air.  On one side of the bridge were primarily Albanians, on the other side, Serbians.  While the Albanian side was bustling with energy, the Serbian side seemed to have an air of quiet desperation.  I felt bad for the Serbs. Kosovo is still a contested area.  The Albanians want it to be an independent country while the Serbs want to keep it as part of their country.

The lousy economic situation, especially on the Serbian side, is not helping matters any.  Here is where we see ROM in action though as we dined with both Serbs and Albanians at the same table amidst true friendships.  These friendships were forged at ROM over the course of many years.

The next country on our agenda was Macedonia.  Here we were quite literally overwhelmed by the majestic statues and monuments filling the central square.  At the center was their national hero, Alexander the Great mounted on a horse.  The pedestal, horse and man must have been at least 50 feet tall!  If it weren’t for the high cost of these monuments I would have simply rejoiced, but knowing how much it costs this nation, I couldn’t help but wonder if the money could have better been spent on infrastructure such as schools, hospitals, roads.

Nevertheless as was the case in other countries we met many old and new friends and dined on delicious national delicacies.  One special example was cheese made from sheep’s milk.  We climbed up a mountain and found a humble shelter near the top.  This was the home of a shepherd.  He served us three different kinds of cheese, ranging from very fresh to very aged.  I liked the aged ones better, but was very impressed by his hospitality. He insisted we have large helping of each cheese!

Again crossing over high mountain ridges we entered the next country, Albania.  Quite literally we drove on top of the mountains, affording us breathtaking views in all directions.  Here we dined on lamb, another national specialty.  It was quite good, but the quantity was way too much to finish so we had to take a bag of the meat back to our hotel.  I had been in Tirana before, but way back in 1999.  My, how things have changed - new, wide boulevards, pretty parks, and high rise, apartment buildings under construction everywhere!  We even found American style bowling in the center of the city.  It was so much fun playing with our Albanian friends!

Back in Montenegro, this time we didn’t simply pass through, but stayed to see our friends there.  Unfortunately we arrived just as a tragedy hit one of the Roma (Gypsy) refugee camps in Podgorica.  A horrible fire roared through the camp destroying everything.  Since the camp full of wooden barracks and the weather had been very dry, conditions were ripe for such a horrendous occurrence.  When we came on the scene we could see people milling around half dazed, some were wandering through the smoldering ashes trying to salvage what they could.  Then if that weren’t enough… it started to rain and not just a sprinkle, but a downpour!  We took up a collection amongst ourselves to provide the people with at least some money to buy food and clothing.  We also held a worship service where many heart-felt prayers were shared.  Later we heard the government put metal containers that were made into small houses in the camp. 

We finally did get one day in of swimming though.  As coast of Monte Negro is quite beautiful, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to cool off!  One of our team members also decided to get baptized.  It was a moving, spiritual experience.

Finally the roads led us back to Croatia and the end of our fun, challenging, exhausting, and rewarding journey.  As we rode toward our final destination we reflected on all that we saw, heard, felt and experienced.  It was a trip we won’t soon forget!  Parting was hard since we went through a lot together, but alas we had to say goodbye!

Another Wonderful Camp

My grand trip over my summer wasn’t yet complete.  I headed back to Serbia to help out with another camp for children with cancer.  This camp was sponsored by the National Association for Parents who have Children with Cancer.  Unlike my other camp, each child could bring a parent (or guardian) along.  We had over 60 children ages 3 to 19!  The age range was a challenge but we divided the children and teens according to age group so that the activities they did were age appropriate.  In addition to arts and crafts, sports and games the camp also had swimming in a heated indoor pool, horseback riding and psychological workshops.  I assisted with the psychological workshops addressing such themes as: family, school, hospital, emotions, and even wishes.  Besides good health the kids wanted typical things any kids would want, like toys, sports cars, mansions, planes, etc.  

The camp was held at a rehabilitation hospital in a small town called Ivanjica nestled in the mountains of Serbia.  The hospital had more of a hotel feel to it, so it wasn’t too clinical.  The hospital grounds were forested which provided lots of cool shade during the days.  Even though this camp was longer, 11 days, than the one in Croatia, still the children wanted it to last even longer!

Brett McMichael

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